Mercredi 27 mai 2009 3 27 /05 /Mai /2009 22:13

With the time I started to distinguish the different kinds of travelers cruising through Brazil. The main characteristics were:

n  The shade of skin colour: innocently white or a dark honey tone?

n  The number of woven bracelets covering the arms and legs of a person: independent of neither age nor gender, everyone seemed to develop this affection for simple and a bit folkloric ornaments

n  The growing apathy and disinterest: once the brain has reached its capacity to receive new information and stimuli, the traveler would slow down and simply drift like a bird in the wind. This usually would mean spending the whole days in a hostel without moving. Just hanging around in front of a computer, in bed or at the bar. If you tried to propose an activity involving more, the disinterested and resigned expression would teach you better.

n  The increasing belief in Lady Fortune: pure acceptance of things the way they are without any attempt to change or to refuse.

One day I was travelling for several hours with a guy without shoes. Despite the wet floor of a boot, the cold air conditioning of a bus and the sharp stones of the pavement, he just walked barefoot with his backpack like a hobbit. I tried to be funny and made a joke:

-       “Did you lose your shoes?”   

A peaceful look full of Nirvana spirit:

-       “Yes. Somewhere…. 2 days ago….”

It took my friend another 2 days to cover up his lower extremities.

 

RIO DE JANEIRO

I stayed in a huge hostel at the Copacabana beach. It was a constant party place with rooms of 24 beds (!!!) and, again, full of English fresh from school.

Straight from the beginning I had the feeling of participating in a chess game. Your movements around the city were strictly limited according to the chess piece you got assigned to. For me, being a white, female foreigner, Rio only consisted of Copacabana, Ipanema, Leblon and Santa Teresa. Partying and going out after dusk was only allowed in male company without any valuables on you. All these rules did make you a bit paranoiac, nevertheless Rio was an absolute highlight of my route!

Samba and Bossa Nova live every night, great juice bars with around 40 different kinds of exotic fruits ready to be squeezed, markets with great jewellery and purses…
Of course I did not miss out on any tourist attractions, like the sunset at the Corcovado. Simply breathtaking!

What made Rio very dangerous was the fact, that you had nice districts right next to the favelas drowning in poverty. For some it was a troublesome point, for some…pure tourist attraction. Every hostel offered the so called “Favela tours”. Closed and safe in a car you would drive through a favela. Similar to a safari, only here you had real people playing the monkeys. Our hostel brought me in a state of shock by offering a “Favela Funk Party”. For 65 reals (around 22 Euros) you would get the chance to party with the locals from a favela. The price included the transfer, security and a separated VIP area. Not sure what you think of it, but for me it was just sick!

After so much city stress, I decided to take a break somewhere on a nice beach.

 

ILHA GRANDE & PARATY

Have you ever seen the commercial for Bounty promising you the paradise of pleasure? Well, I am sure the film location was one of the beaches of Ilha Grande!  
Fine sand, soft waves, palm trees heavy with coconuts and  …. couples everywhere. This island was made for pure relaxing, eating, drinking and making children I guess. J

 

 

 


Par Anya
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Dimanche 24 mai 2009 7 24 /05 /Mai /2009 23:21

The trip started off with an absolute record: my whole backpack was only 16.8kg. This is usually the weight of my hand luggage only! 

As a travel experienced friend of mine wisely predicted, the fear was gone as soon as the seatbelt signs were switched off. I just felt free, relaxed and proud. Even the incredibly long flight could not change that!

 

SALVADOR DE BAHIA

The heat wave almost crushed me when I got off the plane. Hot, humid and a definite  lack of fresh air.

At the airport I noticed that our plane had its passport control in a suspiciously remote corner. Everyone working there was wearing a mouth mask and it took me a while to realize that I am coming from a country with confirmed cases of the famous swine flue. All of a sudden I felt like a huge bacteria entering the South American continent.

Once out of the airport I took the public bus to my hostel and stayed with an open mouth the whole 1-hour ride: dirty broken streets, girls in bright colours showing flesh, no timetables for public transport… It was like…Russia only in the tropics. Oh yes, for me it was clear: me and Brazil would get along very well. Let’s call it love at first sight.

The hostel was full of young people (mostly British on their gap year) and even if you would sit alone in a corner, there still would be someone to come and speak to you. Well, and me who continues speaking with her eyes even when the mouth is shut, had no problems of communication whatsoever.  Although I have to admit that the free welcome drink (a delicious caipirinha) has eased the process enormously. 

I quickly realized that my idea of traveling was nothing neither new nor extraordinary. Among all these young backpackers discussing if tomorrow they should go to down to Rio or fly out to Amazonas, I honestly felt quite old and boring. It was as if I had jumped on a last wagon of a leaving train.

Despite its wintertime and rainy season, Salvador conquered me with its amazing beaches, tropical fruits and a mixture of Afro-Brazilian culture. I saw the best capoeira show ever, ate a delicious moqueca and enjoyed some great live concerts of samba rock. Praia de Flamingo Old city of Pelourinho

Unfortunately my stomach took its time to get adjusted to the new climate and I had suffered from an awful food poisoning upon my arrival. Rushing down from the top bank to the bathroom in the middle of the night – that was definitely no fun at all… 

Already on the second day of my adventure I understood, that I was not made for traveling alone. The desire to talk and share was stronger than I had imagined. And, lets be honest, I was too much of a coward to go off discovering the streets of Brazil alone as a girl. So I just kept joining people for different trips and excursions. About 70% of the people I have met were backpacking alone anyway, so the groups were being formed every day according to one’s interests.

 

CHAPADA DIAMANTINA

After a couple of days I got tired of the city and decided to go with 2 British from my hostel to the National Park in Lancois. Famous for its waterfalls and hiking tours, this expedition offered the perfect contrast to the city of Salvador.

The whole town of Lancois seemed to be made for tourism. Every second house was a pousada (guesthouse), restaurant or a cybercafe. On every corner a potential guide would haunt you like a hawk offering a tour to every single place of the Chapada.

On the first day we did a car tour visiting the most famous waterfalls and caves of the area. It included a delicious lunch of cactus puree and steamed banana followed by coconut water. I carefully listened to my stomach while chewing, but it seemed to have accepted the fact of being pushed to its limits for the next 4 months.

The second day was dedicated to a waterfall that you can slide down. Almost like in a pool, only here you have no plastic but stones underneath your bottom. A weird animal, some kind of mixture between a squirrel and a monkey was observing our European clumsiness in wild nature.


On the third and last day we visited Cachoeira de Fumaca – the highest waterfall in Brazil. Even people not scared of heights had to lie down before taking a glimpse into the eternal nothing. Our guide was a half-Indian, who was born in the jungle. He didn’t know the city until the age of 10. Like Mougli, only in old. On his way, he kept imitating different birds and animals, who actually replied to his whistling and grunting.
I have never seen a human being so close to nature before. This guide was a true element of his environment!

 

 

 

Par Anya
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Mardi 5 mai 2009 2 05 /05 /Mai /2009 10:26
Tomorrow at 6am is the take off to Salvador de Bahia - my first stop in Brazil. 15 hours of flying with 1 stop in Frankfurt. I did a reservation n a guest house for the 3 first nights.

My body is confronted with so much adrenalin that sometimes it fails to provide me with some basic functions like breathing for example. And yes: I AM SCAAAAAAARED!

So please offer me your moral support for the next couple of days to come. Just until I have had the chance to recover somewhere on a commercial-like beach under the Brazilian sun. :)
Par Anya
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Samedi 2 mai 2009 6 02 /05 /Mai /2009 14:16
1 backpack ready
2 parents going absolutely crazy
3 last days to go before deparure....

Thanks to my unique circus show on Saturday night, the fast departure from Paris was more a blessing than a sad event. Nevertheless the last days were full of emotions, excitement and unexpected turns. As if somebody was trying to prepare me for the adventure to come.

The week at home is quite special this time. My mom tries to cook as many dishes as possible and feed them all to me at once.  My dad is equipping me with medecine against every little  problem  which might occur on my way. Oh, and this morning he was hunting me through the flat with a vaccination against diphteria and tetanus. After a long scream I had to surrender. Poor him, he already has enough nightmares with the swine flu....

Par Anya
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